![]() ![]() I have a set of worn out 932s where I epoxied those velocity stacks on to the carburetor bodies and filled in the joint at the junction where the carb bell mouth meets the velocity stack. That said the design of the those velocity stacks is very good because they present a constant inside diameter to and at the point of the carburetor bellmouth and then that inside diameter continues out to the new bellmouth of the velocity stack. Yes, the grub screws ruin the threads on the carburetors and they loosen and fall out they might even loosen fall out and somehow get into the engine. ![]() ![]() If the weather is going better i will try needle one step down and air screw out. Plugs are deer-brown on the ground strap. I didnt drive under 3000rpm a lot, because of vibration issues, but i think that is normal. ways to fat but it is working.Īccelerating up to 5000rpm AF is moving between 12 an 13.5 and the bike runs really fine (it is my first norton so i can not compare with others). Stock default carb settings, only float hight is 1mm under chamber surface.Īir Fuel Ratio (AF) in idle is 10.5. stones to be sucked in or fire comming out.Īlso a wideband lambda sonde was fittet on the pipes near the footrests. I also fitted a chinese tea eggs over the stack to prevent eg. i made a test with a piece of aluminium and sealent in petrol with 10% ethanol for half a year. ![]() this gave a equal surface with no steps in the inlet. I glued the stacks to the carb with with a polyurethan sealent called "sika flex pro II". I try to report how things working yet, for anybody who is interested. Some time ago i asked about carb setting with the amal racing velocity stack. It might look less 'hot rod' but these FCRs were expensive! However, to prevent excess carb wear I put the stacks inside Ramair foam filters. I experimented with long and short stacks on the dyno and again favoured the short stacks. However, these long stacks tended to cause a stutter just off of idle that was very difficult, sometimes impossible, to tune out. On a road bike, I never felt any performance gain. Short fat ones (not commonly available for Amals) give slightly less top end, but a broader spread of power, and were generally what I used on racers. Long ones (like theses RGM ones) give a small BHP increase at max RPM. In my personal experience, on a race tuned motor they do make a small BHP difference. Personally, I never detected excess engine wear from using them, but I definitely saw increased carb wear of the slide, body, needle and needle jets. I had 3 on a Trident that looked proper 'hot rod'! I have run these on several bike road and race, I think they look great, especially on a cafe racer. If you want a clue about what works you should check out some vintage races, these bikes get it done ,makes you look at the candy store caffe' racers in a whole different(laughable) light. seems to me a lot of the guys that run these things competitively use the long biggo K&N filters, personally, I think these look hideous on a streetbike, but competition is not about looks. Honestly, I gotta believe if this is gonna be a fairweather rider for the bike nights and not serious road riiding, they will probably look the biz and your top end will last a lifetime. It's your bike, your choice, but the general idea is they look cool, might give a bit of performance, generally regarded as useless on a streetbike. does any part of riding a 40 year old dinosaur in modern traffic make any sense? are you really planning to use the bike in a performance oriented manner? Who you gonna race?ĭo they make any sense?. After a mile or two of looking down and listening I was able to go back to the exact spot and find the (run-over) stack !ĭo they improve performance? theoretically. I did have one fall off one day and the drop in performance was very noticeable. If you use the AMAL stacks, make sure you epoxy on as well and be warned that the small grub screws will crush the mazak threaded section of the carb body meaning it might be difficult to change back. They sound good and look great so don't let me talk you out of trying it. Main jets went up quite a bit (270s I think) and a change of slide. I did find that they gave a crisper pick-up and more urge at the top-end. The biggest problem was rain running down the back of the fuel tank when parked and dripping into the inlets. The bike did have a cartridge oil filter and it was used on-road in the south-east of England so not the dustiest place. I put about 30,000 miles on an 850 Commando with velocity stacks and it was more or less ready for a re-bore after that although it wasn't causing problems. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |